Hub Bore & Center Bore: The Complete Guide to Hub-Centric Fitment

The hub bore (also called center bore) is the large circular opening in the center of your wheel that fits over your vehicle's hub. This measurement is critical for proper wheel fitment. Get it wrong, and you'll experience vibration, difficulty mounting, or potentially dangerous wheel installation.

When shopping for aftermarket wheels, you'll encounter the terms hub centric vs lug centric constantly. Understanding this distinction is fundamental to choosing wheels that will perform safely and smoothly on your vehicle.

Your vehicle's hub has a specific diameter, measured in millimeters. For example, a Honda Civic Si has a hub diameter of 64.1mm, while a BMW 3 Series (E90/F30) measures 72.6mm. When a wheel's center bore matches this dimension exactly, it's considered hub centric, meaning the wheel centers itself perfectly on the hub, with the vehicle's weight distributed evenly through this connection.

This seemingly simple measurement affects everything from highway stability to the longevity of your wheel bearings. Before diving into aftermarket wheels, understanding hub bore is just as important as knowing your bolt pattern and offset.

The debate between hub centric vs lug centric wheel mounting comes down to how your wheel centers itself on the vehicle.

Hub centric wheels have a center bore that matches your vehicle's hub diameter exactly. The wheel slides onto the hub and centers itself automatically. The lug nuts then secure the wheel in place, but the hub itself bears the vehicle's weight. This is how OEM wheels are designed, as they're manufactured specifically for one vehicle's hub size.

Lug centric wheels have a center bore larger than your hub diameter. The wheel is centered by carefully torquing the lug nuts in a star pattern, with the lugs themselves responsible for both centering and supporting the wheel. Most aftermarket wheels are manufactured this way with oversized center bores (typically 72.6mm or 73.1mm) to fit multiple vehicles.

The verdict? Hub centric mounting is superior for daily driving and high-speed use. When a wheel is truly hub centric, the hub absorbs vibrations and lateral forces that would otherwise stress your lug studs. Race teams and OEM engineers universally prefer hub centric fitment for good reason.

However, lug centric mounting *can* work safely when done correctly, provided the wheel is torqued properly and checked regularly. Many enthusiasts run lug centric setups without issues. The problem is that even slight centering errors create imbalance, leading to the vibrations that plague so many aftermarket wheel installations.

The good news? Hub centric rings let you convert any lug centric wheel to hub centric fitment, giving you the best of both worlds.

Accurate center bore measurement requires precision since we're dealing with tolerances of fractions of a millimeter. Here's how to measure both your vehicle's hub and your wheel's center bore.

Measuring your vehicle's hub diameter: Safely lift the vehicle and remove the wheel. Clean any rust or debris from the hub surface. Use a caliper to measure across the raised center portion of the hub, and take multiple measurements to ensure accuracy.

Measuring a wheel's center bore: Flip the wheel face-down on a clean surface and measure the inside diameter of the center opening. Use a caliper for accuracy since tape measures won't cut it.

Common hub bore sizes by vehicle:

Notice the pattern: Japanese manufacturers tend toward smaller hub bores (54-66mm), while German vehicles often use larger ones (57-73mm). This is why a set of wheels from a BMW won't mount correctly on a Subaru BRZ without hub centric rings, as the 72.6mm wheel bore would have massive play on the BRZ's 56.1mm hub.

When purchasing wheels, always verify the center bore specification. Reputable wheel manufacturers list this prominently, and it's just as critical as knowing your wheel width and offset requirements.

You've installed your new aftermarket wheels, had them balanced, and yet there's still a vibration at highway speeds. Sound familiar? This is the most common symptom of improper center bore fitment, and it frustrates countless enthusiasts.

Here's what's happening: When a wheel's center bore is larger than your hub, the wheel can shift microscopically as it rotates. Even a 0.5mm offset from true center creates noticeable imbalance at speed. Your tire shop can balance the wheel perfectly on their machine, but once it's mounted on your car, that balance is compromised by the centering error.

The wheel vibration fix is simple: hub centric rings.

Hub centric rings (also called centerbore rings or spigot rings) are precision-machined spacers that fill the gap between your wheel's center bore and your vehicle's hub. They're typically made from aluminum (durable, handles heat well, stays in place, best for performance applications and track use) or polycarbonate/plastic (lighter, less expensive, easier to remove, fine for street use but may deform under extreme heat).

Installation is straightforward: Slide the ring into the wheel's center bore where it should fit snugly. Mount the wheel on the hub, and the ring centers on the hub automatically. Then torque lug nuts to spec in a star pattern.

After installing proper hub centric rings, most vibration issues disappear immediately. If vibration persists, the problem lies elsewhere, such as unbalanced tires, bent wheels, or suspension issues.

Note: Hub centric rings address centering issues, not spacing issues. If you need to push your wheels outward for better fitment or fender clearance, you'll need wheel spacers instead.

Hub centric ring sizing requires two measurements: the outer diameter (OD) matches your wheel's center bore, and the inner diameter (ID) matches your vehicle's hub.

The sizing formula: Hub Centric Ring Size = Wheel Center Bore (OD) → Vehicle Hub (ID)

For example, if you're mounting wheels with a 73.1mm center bore on a Honda Civic Type R (64.1mm hub), you need 73.1mm to 64.1mm hub centric rings. These are commonly written as "73.1-64.1" or "73.1/64.1."

Popular hub centric ring sizes for common wheel/vehicle combinations:

Tolerance matters. Quality hub centric rings are machined to tight tolerances (±0.1mm). Cheap rings with sloppy tolerances defeat the purpose because if the ring doesn't fit precisely, you still have centering error.

Pro tips for hub centric ring selection: Buy quality machined aluminum rings from reputable brands, as they cost a few dollars more but last indefinitely and maintain tolerances. Verify both dimensions by measuring your actual hub and wheel rather than assuming they match published specs. Consider material based on your use case: track days and performance driving warrant aluminum rings, while casual street use is fine with plastic. Check for interference, as some brake dust shields or hub designs have raised features that may interfere with certain ring designs.

When building a staggered wheel setup, remember that front and rear wheels may have different center bores. Always verify you have the correct rings for each wheel position.

Proper installation ensures your hub centric setup performs as intended. Here's how to get it right, along with common mistakes to avoid.

Before installation: Clean your hubs thoroughly with a wire brush and rust preventative. Inspect hub centric rings for cracks, chips, or deformation. Verify ring sizing by test-fitting before full installation. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub surface to prevent rings from seizing on.

During installation: Insert the hub centric ring into the wheel's center bore, where it should press in with light finger pressure. Place the wheel on the hub, allowing the ring's inner diameter to center on the hub. Hand-thread all lug nuts before tightening, then torque in a star pattern to your vehicle's specification. Re-torque after 50-100 miles of driving.

Common mistakes to avoid: Using the wrong ring orientation is a frequent error, as some rings have a lip that must face a specific direction, so check manufacturer instructions. Forcing rings is another mistake; if a ring requires significant force to install, the sizing is wrong. Skipping anti-seize causes problems because aluminum rings can corrode to steel hubs over time, making removal difficult. Ignoring corrosion leads to issues since rusty hubs change dimensions, so always clean thoroughly before measuring or installing. Finally, while hub centric rings center the wheel, proper lug nut torque is still essential.

Remember that hub centric fitment is one piece of the overall wheel fitment puzzle. Your tire sidewall selection affects ride quality, your offset determines positioning, and understanding these relationships helps you build a setup that looks great and performs safely.

For aggressive fitments that push the boundaries, particularly those requiring fender work, hub centric mounting becomes even more critical. Any vibration or imbalance is amplified when running stretched tires or extreme offsets.

Ready to find your perfect wheels? Browse WheelPrice's extensive marketplace to find wheels that fit your vehicle. Filter by bolt pattern, offset, and width to narrow your search, then verify center bore compatibility before purchasing. Whether you're building a track-ready Toyota GR86, a daily-driven VW GTI, or a show-stopping Ford Mustang, the right wheels are waiting, and now you know exactly how to make them fit perfectly.